What to Do if Your Dog Has a Seizure

By Ruthie Bently

I began doing research into seizures after I knew Skye was coming to live with me. I looked into homeopathy, acupuncture, Reiki and other alternative therapies. I even contacted an animal communicator so I could ‘speak’ to Skye. I did everything I could think of to prepare for living with a “seizure” dog. I thought I was equipped to handle it if Skye had a seizure. But when it happened, even though her seizure was minor (compared to what I expected), it was still an emotional event because I felt powerless to help her.

As I explained in my article on canine epilepsy, when the electrical synapses of a brain misfire, it causes erratic un-coordinated nerve transmissions to the body’s muscles, which results in a seizure. A dog can have a seizure without having epilepsy though, and there are many things in our environment that can cause a seizure. While we understand the mechanics of a seizure, the brain is a complex organism which we do not fully understand. No matter how much information you read on the subject, remember every dog is different and so are their seizures. There are four kinds of seizures (petite mal, grand mal, status epilepticus, clusters) and their severity ranges from mild to life threatening. Seizures are categorized as either partial or generalized. The impulses of a partial seizure begin in a specific area of the brain, while the generalized seizure takes place all over at once.

The symptoms of a seizure are varied and many depending on the seizure. Some seizures begin with a loss of consciousness and all the dog’s muscles contracting. Your dog may begin drooling excessively. A dog’s facial muscles may begin twitching or they may begin vocalizing. There may be opening and closing of the jaws and a dog may look like they are running in place. During certain seizures some dogs are even conscious and aware of their surroundings. After the seizure, a dog may lie still for a short period. They will eventually get up but may show signs of post seizure behavior. These can include bumping into things, being disoriented, temporary blindness or loss of focus, and running or pacing around the house. They can be confused, may not recognize their owner and may even be afraid of them.

When your dog experiences a seizure, electrical and chemical changes occur in their brain; these result in behavioral changes in your dog. These are only temporary conditions and will go away with time. Every seizure affects a dog’s behavior and the more severe the seizure is, the more behavioral changes you will notice. Some are slight and go away quickly and some may take longer to recede. You need to have understanding and patience to help your dog get through this bewildering time. Stay calm while your dog is having the seizure, and don’t get in their way. Try to keep the area around them as clear as possible, so they don’t bump into something and injure themselves. Keep your hands away from their face and body; you may be injured due to their involuntary movements. After the seizure talk to your dog in a comforting voice and try to keep them calm.

If your dog has never had a seizure before, take them to the vet for an overall checkup. Having a blood panel done may be suggested. Contact your breeder to see if any littermates had or developed seizures issues. If your dog came from a shelter, ask if they noticed anything or can tell you about your dog’s background, as some breeds are predisposed to having seizure problems. Check out your home and your dog’s living environment (don’t rule out any changes you may have made) to find a reason for the seizure if the vet doesn’t have an answer. We use many products today, some of which can be seizure triggers for a dog. There are several good sources for seizure triggers on the internet; look them up and compare them to your situation.

It’s always a good idea to keep a medical journal for your dog, and can be especially helpful if your dog has seizures. You can record any seizures your dog has, the duration, symptoms and post recovery. Daily medications, including time of day and dosages given to your dog should be entered. You can also record vaccination records, preparations used for flea and tick removal, and details of all vet visits. If your dog has another seizure or continues to have seizures, you’ll have the information at your fingertips for the next time.

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Why Do Dogs Mark Their Territory?

By Ruthie Bently

Both male and female dogs mark their territory to let other animals (including humans) know that this is their space and it should not be trespassed upon or there will be consequences. Male dogs and some females will lift their leg. The reason is to leave their scent highest on the place they are marking. I know a female that both lifts her leg and squats. She learned the leg lifting because she grew up with a male dog; he was her role model and lifted his leg, so she does too.

Have you ever wondered why so many male dogs show up when your female goes into season for the first time? A male dog can tell by the smell of a female’s urine that she is in season and ready to breed, and they’ll come from quite a distance. A dog’s scent is carried on the wind and a dog’s sense of smell is so good, their competitors whether domestic or wild, get the warning at a distance. Before we had a fenced place for my AmStaff Skye, I’d leash walk her around the property. I let her amble where she wanted and she always chose the perimeters of the property, stopping every so often to do her business. We had coyotes when we moved here and saw one loping across our meadow once. After Skye came to live here we never saw them again, but we could hear them howling at night from a distance.

Sometimes a male dog will mark inside the house if he feels his territory is threatened, and this can pertain to his owner as well. I had a female client (Ms. Smith) with an adult intact male Akita named Buck. Ms. Smith began dating after a divorce, and Buck had an issue with her male friend. The dog would go into the bathroom and mark the toilet after her boyfriend had used it. Ms. Smith tried closing the bathroom door, but Buck then marked the door. Neutering wasn’t an option since Buck was a show dog and you cannot show a neutered dog in confirmation. I suggested that her boyfriend bring some dog treats when he came over. I hoped that having him give Buck a treat when he walked in and during the visit might help the dog become more accepting and be less apt to mark the toilet or bathroom door. It worked so well that Ms. Smith and her boyfriend got married, and Buck was the ring bearer at their wedding.

If you have a dog that is going potty in an inappropriate place, they can be retrained to go outside. I had to retrain Skye when she came to live here because she was used to going potty in a concrete run. She got to go outside and play with the other dogs and occasionally went on the grass, but usually waited to go back to her kennel to potty. Until I retrained her, Skye would have accidents in the house even if I took her outside every half hour. I spoke with an animal behaviorist recently and she explained that Skye could not differentiate between the concrete run floor and the kitchen floor because they were both smooth, flat surfaces. It is important to train a dog to go outside because the surfaces outside are different than the floors of a house.

I was able to use dog treats as a reinforcement for good behavior. I discovered the best approach was to reward Skye when she pottied outside, making sure to do so before we went back in the house. Now, she even barks to let me know when she needs to go outside. Having Skye properly house-trained has stopped her from marking inside the house, and has certainly made life easier!

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What is an Elizabethan Collar?

By Ruthie Bently

I have had several experiences with Elizabethan collars for animals (also known as a space collar, an E-collar or a cone). Some of my dogs were embarrassed to wear them, and others would do anything to get past them to what they wanted to chew or lick. Queen Elizabeth the First is credited with popularizing the Elizabethan collar for humans, which was made of lace and was a stiff ruff added to clothing to keep someone’s clothing from getting dirty around their neck.

However, this article is about the Elizabethan collar for pets, which was first patented by F.L. Johnson in 1962. I couldn’t find any other information about the person who invented this device, so I can’t tell you if they were a veterinarian or just someone who wanted to help their own animal. The original E-collar was made of a fairly rigid piece of plastic that was a conical shape. It fit around an animal’s neck and attached to their regular collar to help keep it in place.

E-Collars are still primarily made of plastic, although cloth ones are also available, and different styles exist. There is even an inflatable model now, which looks like a large doughnut that goes around the pet’s neck. While they look comfortable, I would not trust my dog with this type of E-collar; one well-placed grab with a tooth or toenail and it would be history (and believe me, Skye would be doing her best to puncture it).

The purpose of an Elizabethan collar is to prevent an animal from reaching a specific part of their own body to keep them from licking or chewing, either on a wound, sore (like a hot spot) or stitches after a surgical procedure. They are usually used on dogs and cats, but I have heard of instances of them being used on birds (for feather plucking) and on horses. The small end is put around the pet’s neck so their head is within the confines of the cone and the larger circle of the cone projects out from the dog’s body away from their neck.

The first time an owner sees an E-collar they usually have to stifle a laugh, because the vision of their pet walking around with a lampshade-shaped object around their neck can be quite humorous. Most pets adjust to the E-collar just fine after wearing them for a few minutes, though they usually need to have them removed so they can eat or drink water. Try to be sympathetic and not laugh if your pet bumps into a wall or doorways; the E-collar can restrict their peripheral vision and make it harder to move around the house until they get used to wearing it.

You can make your own version of an Elizabethan collar by using a plastic bucket or plastic flower pot. I even read an article that states you can make one from paper plates, but if you live with a serious chewer like I do, I wouldn’t advise that. To make your own E-collar, cut a hole just large enough for your pet’s head to go through in the bottom of whatever object you choose to use. You can use sandpaper to smooth the edge, and tape around the rim to prevent any excessive rubbing on your pet’s neck. To keep the E-Collar attached to your pet’s regular collar so it doesn’t come off, punch several holes around the rim of the hole you cut for your pet’s head and use a shoestring cut into several pieces to attach it to your pet’s collar.

Many people have a love-hate relationship with the Elizabethan collar, but by using one for your pet when you need to, you can eliminate the need for medicating your animal to keep it calmer. They may look funny, but E-collars greatly help to prevent the need for re-stitching a wound that has been opened by your pet’s excessive licking.

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What to Do if Your Dog is Bleeding

By Ruthie Bently

If you discover that your dog has an injury, try to stay as calm as you can. By staying calm you can keep your dog calm as well. They can sense your stress, and the most important thing is to keep them calm. The next thing to do is to determine where the blood is coming from. For example, a dog can cut their paw and it may bleed profusely, though it may not be a serious injury. Check them all over from nose to tail to find out where they are bleeding. By finding the source of the bleeding, you can determine how serious the wound is and proceed from there.

The color of the blood can help you determine if it comes from an artery or a vein. Venous blood will be a dark red color and may ooze from a wound, and arterial blood will be bright red because of its oxygen content. If there is a lot of blood and the wound has stopped bleeding and begun to clot, do not attempt to remove the clot, as this can make the wound begin to bleed again. Wrap the wound in a clean towel or several layers of gauze and tape the wound well but not too tightly, as this can cause swelling in the affected area. This is called a pressure bandage.

If the bleeding is severe and you can’t get the wound to stop bleeding or it is bleeding sluggishly, again apply a pressure bandage and get your dog to the vet or emergency clinic as soon as you can. This situation can be life threatening and time is of the essence. Another way to stop the bleeding is to use a tourniquet, but do not use this method unless advised by your veterinarian, because cutting off the blood flow completely can damage tissue in the surrounding area.

If it is a cut on your dog’s foot, it could be from a foreign object they stepped on outside. The capillaries in a dog’s foot are very close to the surface and they can bleed profusely even if the wound is minor. Carefully examine their foot to find the source of the bleeding. If you don’t see a foreign body lodged in their foot and the bleeding is minimal you can clean it with a mixture of 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% water. If it is the webbed tissue between their pads, it may not stop on its own and may require stitches.

The most important things about a cut on your dog are to get the bleeding stopped and prevent infection. If the cut is a laceration of an inch or more and has any amount of depth to it, it may require stitches. Any cut may become infected, and you should contact your vet about using an antibiotic to keep infection at bay.

My AmStaff, Skye, had an accident that happened when she walked through a broken glass jar one of the cats had knocked off my kitchen shelf. She nicked her right leg, which required two stitches. Her left leg was a more serious injury. She cut the ulnar artery (one of the two in her leg) and cut through two tendons, and the blood was bright red. I don’t tell you this to scare you or gross you out; I just want you to be aware that no matter how careful you are in your own house, accidents can happen when you least expect them, and you need to be prepared.

Because of my quick action, the vet’s prognosis of her regaining the full use of her leg and foot are good. We have a first aid kit for our animals, as every responsible pet owner should. If you want to make one, read Linda Cole’s June article for a list of basic first aid supplies.

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Trucking “Tails” From the Open Road

By Julia Williams

When Bill Taylor tells you that his German Shepherd dog, Hannah, goes everywhere with him, he isn’t exaggerating. That’s because Bill and his wife Robyn are long-haul truck drivers, and Hannah accompanies them on all of their cross-country travels. I recently had a chance to chat with Bill and Robyn (while they were on the road, naturally) and thought our readers might enjoy getting to know them too. Bill had many interesting stories to tell about Hannah, who he says enjoys the nomadic life very much. Hannah also loves meeting new people everywhere they go, and strangers (especially children) get a kick out of seeing a dog riding in the front seat of the truck cab.

Five-year-old Hannah was just eight weeks old when the Taylors added her to their family and began taking her on road trips. Although this inseparable trio is away from home for several months at a time now, they were doing local deliveries when they adopted Hannah, which made it easier to get her adjusted to life on the road. Still, Bill says Hannah did just fine from the start, and travels well. Even more impressive, Hannah has not had a single “accident” in the truck, unless you count the time she upchucked. Bill is quick to point out, however, that even this minor transgression was not on the carpeted section of their cab. Smart dog indeed!

Many people think of their pets as more human than cat or dog, and the Taylors would agree. “It wouldn’t surprise me if Hannah said ‘Hello’ sometime,” says Bill. Hannah knows many words, among them cookie, squirrel, food, leash, walk, rabbit and cow. It doesn’t take more than a minute or two of talking with Bill to see that he loves his dog very much, and that he and his wife both really enjoy having her with them on their trips.

It’s also quite clear that Hannah, whose nickname is “Pupkus,” rules the roost… or the cab, I should say. According to Bill, Hannah doesn’t have her own dog bed in the cab because she prefers to sleep on their bed. Moreover, she carves out her space on the bed first, and he and his wife squeeze into the space that’s left. Bill says Hannah likes to curl up on her blanket and snooze away while the miles tick by, but she’s more than happy to get out and get some exercise when they pull into a rest stop. After her walk, Hannah heads straight to the cupboard where her cookies are kept, and waits to receive her treat.

Like any canine, Hannah has her share of quirks that make her all the more endearing. For instance, Hannah won’t drink water out of a dog dish – instead, she prefers to drink the melted ice-water out of a cooler Bill and Robyn keep in the cab. They know when she’s thirsty, Bill says, because she scratches on the side of the cooler until they open it for her. Another of Hannah’s idiosyncrasies is the uncanny ability to smell cows well before she can see them. The Taylors always know when they are about to drive past a herd of cows, because Hanna sticks her nose into the truck’s vents.

Of course, life on the road with a canine companion is not without challenges. For one thing, Hannah sheds profusely. Or as Bill puts it, “We just about build a new dog every day with the amount of hair she sheds.” Another issue is the amount of dog food they need to carry with them. Hannah eats CANIDAE dog food (the grain-free kibble is her favorite) and as anyone who feeds this premium pet food knows, it’s not available at the local supermarket or pet superstore. This means that the Taylors always bring along a large supply of dog food – Bill jokes that “Hannah has more food in the truck than we do”—and they also know which feed stores and independent pet stores along their route carry CANIDAE pet food so they can buy more if need be. (If you need to find CANIDAE pet food while traveling, be sure to check out the easy-to-use CANIDAE Store Locator designed for mobile phones.)

But Bill says without a doubt the worst experience he and Robyn have endured thanks to Hannah was the time she got sprayed by a skunk at a rest stop. Hannah was on a 30-foot leash so she could run around and burn off some excess energy, when she encountered the skunk. Luckily, Bill called a trucker friend, who knew of a place down the road that had a pet wash facility located next to a truckstop. They were able to get the truck and the dog washed at the same time, and Bill says the place did such a good job of removing the skunk odor that they now make a point to stop there whenever it’s on their route. Still, Bill says “That was the longest hundred miles I have ever driven.” Knowing all too well how sickening the smell of skunk is, I can only imagine!

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Are Prosthetics for Dogs a Good Idea?

By Ruthie Bently

Most of us have heard about or seen dogs with physical impairments. Some happen through accidents, some through a birth defect, and some happen as the dog ages. Some dogs do perfectly fine after the loss of a limb, while others need assistance of some kind. My first dog Nimber had an accident and lost his right front foot, but after he healed he never had a problem getting around. Some dogs even do well after losing two legs. But what about dogs that might need some help?

Did you know there are now companies that make prosthetics for dogs? I remember seeing carts in the 1970s that were made for pets who had lost the use of their back legs, and now there are companies that make prosthetics for dogs who have had other injuries. Several of them began making prosthetics for people and because of the owner’s love of animals either amended their business to include prosthetics for animals or changed their focus and began making prosthetics for animals exclusively.

A dog that may need a prosthesis is first evaluated to determine what kind of device is best. The dog is appraised using information about any deformity they may have, and the aspects specific to the injury if they received one. Their physical activities and living environment are also taken into consideration. After the evaluation, a cast is made of the part of the body the prosthesis will be used for. The time it takes to manufacture a prosthetic device is typically about five to ten business days. The time can vary depending on which joints of the dog’s body need to be considered, as well as the type of prosthetic and the chosen material it will be manufactured from. As each dog is different, so is the device made for them.

Prosthetics are not intended to be worn 24/7; the dog will need a break from time to time. Because of the materials they’re made from, a prosthetic device will not change its shape or break down over time. To ensure a good fit, the dog needs to use the prosthesis for several weeks. Owners need to watch the prominent bone involved and the dog’s hair and skin for any signs of wear, which will help to determine how well the prosthesis is fitting the dog. By watching the dog use the prosthetic device on a daily basis during regular activities, owners can also determine if it is the proper device for their dog. Adjustments and repairs may need to be made from time to time to make sure the prosthesis keeps doing what it was constructed to do in the proper manner.

Do you think your dog needs a prosthetic device? Have you considered the pros and cons of such a decision? While researching this article I read about a dog that, after being fitted with a device, was miserable when they were forced to wear it. The dog’s owner, while trying to do what they felt was best for the dog (in my opinion) may have made the wrong decision. The dog in question ran away when the device was brought out and once the device was on would chew on it to try and remove it.

There are several things to consider when looking into a prosthetic device for a dog (or a pet of any kind). First and foremost is whether or not the pet would benefit from it both physically and emotionally, and is it in their best interest, or is it to assuage feelings of guilt you may have? Will it add fulfillment and quality to their daily life? The cost of the device and subsequent fittings should also be considered, and whether or not you can afford it.

When Nimber lost his foot I suppose I could have gotten him some kind of prosthesis but never honestly considered it. He didn’t have any physical or emotional issues after his accident; he got on with living and enjoyed his life even with his handicap. I did, however, gain valuable insight from Nimber’s accident. I had many handicapped clients who owned pets and while I always treated them with respect and consideration when helping them find things for their pets, I realized there was something lacking in myself. They dealt with their handicaps in the best way they could, just as Nimber did with his, and I gained even more respect for their handicaps because I lived with a handicapped dog.

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AKC Recognizes Three New Dog Breeds

By Ruthie Bently

The American Kennel Club recently added three new dog breeds to its roster of recognized dog breeds, which brings the number of recognized breeds to 164. They are the Boykin Spaniel, the Bluetick Coonhound and the Redbone Coonhound. The Bluetick and the Redbone Coonhounds will join the Hound Group and the Boykin Spaniel will join the Sporting Group. All three breeds will be able to compete at conformation shows in their respective groups and are eligible for full registration in the AKC.

The Boykin Spaniel was developed in South Carolina where it is the official state dog. Mr. L. Whitaker Boykin is responsible for developing the breed in the early 1900s for hunting wild turkeys after he found that the dog had a natural talent for it. Boykin was introduced to the original dog that was the forerunner of the breed by his hunting partner Alexander White. White found the dog wandering near his church in Spartanburg, South Carolina, took him home and named him Dumpy. After spending considerable time with Dumpy and feeling that he would make a good hunting dog, White introduced him to Boykin who undertook his formal hunting training. Nowadays this breed is primarily used for hunting ducks and other waterfowl. The Boykin Spaniel has an energetic, cheerful personality and is a medium-sized breed. Because they have the stamina to do a full day’s worth of work, they do well with a family that is active. They love human companionship and do well with other dogs and children. Their coat is a chocolate brown color.

The Bluetick Coonhound, like most coonhounds, is so named because of its coat color, which is dark blue in color and has a mottled or ticking pattern. It is thought that the Bluetick is descended from the English Foxhound and French Staghound as well as the English Coonhound, a fast working dog that excels at following fresh game trails. In 1945, the Bluetick breeders broke away to create a dog that was a slower worker and able to follow older scent trails. They were very proud of this larger, slower, determined hound and maintained the hunting style that the breed is famous for today. Active sporting families prize the Bluetick for their determination, steadiness for staying on a very intricate track, endurance and working ability. They have the typical coonhound “bawling” bark and are skilled in trailing and treeing raccoons and other small animals. The mascot for the University of Tennessee is a Bluetick Coonhound named Smokey.

The last dog of this new group to be recognized by the AKC is the Redbone Coonhound. This breed is descended from red foxhounds brought from Scotland by immigrants in the late 1700s and also imported from Ireland before the start of the Civil War. Redbones are known for their bright red coat, which is how they got their name. Like the Bluetick they are known for their instinctive ability to tree game and are versatile enough to have been used to hunt game from the size of raccoons to cougars. They are good at swimming and hunting over varied terrains and are able to maintain their agility and speed while doing so. The Redbone lives for pleasing their owner and is trainable in a household situation as well as being an even-tempered dog. The author Wilson Rawls featured a Redbone Coonhound in his book Where the Red Fern Grows.

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Good Books for Dog Owners

By Ruthie Bently

Are you looking for the perfect book for yourself or a relative that owns a dog or a new puppy? With so many choices available these days, how do you find the right one? I have always loved reading and as a buyer of pet products I’ve reviewed many books in my career. When the books went on sale I was usually one of the first in line to add a new book to my personal library.

There is a plethora of dog books available, but in my opinion several stand out from the pack. One great resource for any dog owner is the AKC’s Complete Dog Book, which is now in its twentieth edition. It’s a wonderful book for anyone considering a purebred dog. This comprehensive book covers the 153 AKC recognized breeds at the time of its January 2006 publication. It lists the standards for each breed along with pictures and histories. You get information on how to choose the right dog, as well as nutrition, training, grooming and how to join a dog club. It also lists all the AKC sports available to owners and their dogs. It even discusses how to be a responsible breeder and the Canine Good Citizen® program.

If you’ve already decided on a breed and need a good puppy training book, read The Art of Raising a Puppy, by the Monks of New Skete. The Monks have written several books on dog training, as that is their chosen vocation. This 274-page hardcover book has more than 80 photographs, and discusses how to deal with common puppy issues like paper training, jumping up, chewing and communication. It covers a puppy’s stages of development, and teaches you how to train your puppy with compassion and common sense. The follow-up book, How to Be Your Dog’s Best Friend, builds on the foundation of the first book.

How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With, by Clarice Rutherford and David H. Neil, is a wonderful book for raising a puppy whether they are newborns or a year old. This book is often suggested to new puppy owners by their breeder. It discusses the development of a puppy’s mind and body, and offers suggestions for shaping them into a well behaved, well adjusted dog. It also covers health care and positive methods for training and socializing your puppy.

Richard Wolters wrote several books on dog training, and Family Dog is another winner. This book makes it easy to train a dog, and will work for any age or breed. He discusses the idea that a puppy is ready to train when they are exactly forty-nine days old. You can train a dog in sixteen weeks by using his simple time tested method, which includes teaching basic commands, housebreaking and even tricks. The book doesn’t stop at training though; it discusses how to pick the right dog, first aid and medical information, grooming tips, how to talk to your dog, and why play and relaxation are important.

Another of my personal favorites is Wendy Nan Rees’ Dog Lover’s Daily Companion: 365 Days of Tips, Tricks, and Techniques for Living a Rich Life with Your Dog. You can read it front to back or open it to any page and will find wonderful information for a lifetime of dog owning, whether you have a puppy or an adult dog. It includes a wealth of information on basic dog ownership, including the supplies and training equipment you may need. It also discusses traveling with your pet, health information, selecting your vet, basic grooming and first aid. It gives you tips on cleaning, organizing and housekeeping for your dog, and explains how to bond and build a better relationship with your dog. There are recipes for deodorizers, cleaners, and even gifts for your human friends with “doggy” children. You can create your own dog placemats or photo album, as well as a dog-friendly pantry. There is even a “Dog Zodiac,” which tells you what your dog may be like; Skye is a Leo and her horoscope is right on target.

All of these are good books for dog owners. Whichever one you choose, you cannot go wrong!

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Dressing Your Dog on a Budget

By Ruthie Bently

Everyone has been hit by the bad economy and I have come up with a wonderful way to help dress your dog, without having to spend a lot of money. This will work whether you are looking for a t-shirt, sweater or winter coat for your own dog.

My boyfriend was recently laid off and money has been tight lately. However, we have always been thrifty. Most of our household heat comes from a wood stove, we grow our own vegetables and raise chickens for their eggs, go to garage and yard sales during warmer weather, and when making trips into town we try to carpool with other family members. Although our winter wardrobes have been taken care of and the cats have longer hair coats so don’t need any outdoor clothing, my American Staffordshire Terrier, Skye, is different.

Skye is on medication, and one of the side effects is a hair coat that is thinner and shorter than normal. While her hair does get longer when it gets colder, it isn’t what it could be. Skye will forgive me for saying this, but she is a wimp when it comes to cold. At night she will burrow under the blankets so that only her nose is sticking out, and she stays that way all night long. The problem for me is my dear little wimp loves to go for rides with me, no matter what the weather. I don’t take her when it is too cold, but she has to see the vet every six months for tests. Since the vet is an hour away, I have to be able to take her with me during cold weather, and she needs to be warm enough.

I stumbled on the solution to dressing my dog on a budget when I was in a little resale shop this summer. While going through the clothing racks I found a child’s sweatshirt and wondered if it might fit Skye. The sleeves looked a bit long, but the chest was wide and it had a hood, which was a plus because it would keep the wind out of her short ears.

Measuring your dog for clothes should be done while they are standing. For the length, you should measure from the base of their neck to the base of their tail. It helps to also measure the dog’s leg from the shoulder to the wrist (carpal). Use the leg measurement for the sleeve length so your dog won’t be tripping over the sleeves. I also measure the width between Skye’s legs which helps determine the chest size I need, as she is a deep-chested dog.

The main difference between clothes made for us and those made for dogs is that human clothes sometimes fit your dog better if they are put on backwards. For example, a t-shirt with a picture on the front gets worn so the picture is on the dog’s back. Jackets get put on and zipped up the dog’s back. If your dog is a bit touchy about trying on or wearing clothes, use a treat such as the CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ to help get them dressed.

Some resale shops do not take returns especially if the item is on sale. Make sure you take a tape measure and your measurements along with you, as most shops will not let you bring the dog in. Don’t limit yourself to resale shops, however; also check yard sales and your local recycling center if they take clothing. Also, many thrift stores have a “discount day” when their prices are lower.

I went when their prices were 50% off and got Skye several sweatshirts, t-shirts and a jacket for under $5.00. You can use the same measurements for buying costumes or holiday clothing for your dog. Remember that anything you purchase should fit comfortably on your dog. It can be snug but not binding or your dog may have trouble maneuvering and not want to wear it. Make sure that when it is on your dog they have enough room to urinate or defecate or you will be washing frequently.

You can use child sized booties for your dog’s feet if it isn’t wet outside, just purchase two matching sets. I haven’t had too much luck finding good boots, as a child’s boot weighs so much more than a dog’s boot. Skye even has her own brand name jacket that I found at a thrift store for $2.00; it is pink and purple, and has a zip-out polar fleece lining. I put it on her and zip it up the back and unless it is extremely cold here, she goes for a ride.

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Breed Profile: Basenji (Congo Dog)

By Ruthie Bently

The Basenji is a small hunting dog native to Africa (also known as the Congo dog). The African natives used it for driving game into nets and for pointing, as well as retrieving wounded game. It was also used to warn about dangerous animals in the forest and as a guide. These traits helped the dog in the field as they were frequently out of the hunter’s sight. Their silence, adaptability and courage, as well as their speed and power, were prized as an asset in a productive hunt.

The Basenji has a short coat. They are known as a barkless dog, but depending on their mood will crow, howl or growl and when they are excited they “yodel.” They are a member of the AKC’s hound group; they hunt by using both scent and sight and were recognized in 1944. The first Basenjis were given to ancient Pharaohs of Egypt as gifts, and a Basenji-like dog has been seen on wall drawings and in Egyptian tombs dated to five thousand years ago.

The Basenji breed has some habits more reminiscent of a cat than a dog, as they are fastidious and can spend hours cleaning themselves. They have also been seen sitting on the back of furniture to look out a window. They lack a “doggy” odor and are a low shedding dog, which endears them to their fans.

Basenjis were taken to Britain in 1895 but contracted distemper and died. In 1937 they were taken to Britain again, as well as the United States. The pair imported into the US was able to have a litter of puppies, but all except one male died from distemper. A female was imported to Boston, MA in 1941; she was bred with the surviving male and their litter lived. In subsequent years more Basenji dogs were imported from Britain and Canada, which helped further the breed in the United States.

Basenjis usually live between ten and thirteen years although one lived to the age of twenty-two. The weight for a male dog is between 22 and 26 pounds (10 to 12 kg) and their height is between 16 and 17 inches (41 to 43 cm). Females should weigh between 20 to 25 pounds (9 to 11 kg) and their height should be between 15 and 16 inches (38 to 41 cm).

The Basenji is known as an independent, curious, alert, energetic and affectionate breed that loves to play. There are cautions about having them in a household with non-canine pets, but they do well in multiple Basenji households. They need to be socialized from an early age, are very intelligent with a desire to please, and are fairly easy to train. They do well with children and will form a strong bond with their owner though will be naturally reserved and aloof with strangers.

When introducing a Basenji to new people you should let the dog make the first overtures and approach them head on and not from behind. They need exercise daily to release pent up energy and do not easily tire when playing. They are chewers and should be provided with lots of options so as not to chew inappropriate items around the house.

They are known as climbers and are not averse to scaling a chain link fence. When curious, a Basenji will often stand on their hind legs, and they’re known to be able to jump over six feet straight up. Basenjis are very smart and need an owner who knows how to be the “alpha” dog, or they can become unruly and demanding. If they are exercised enough, a Basenji can be kept in an apartment or in a house with a small yard and would do well with a long daily jaunt.

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The Best Dogs for Apartment Living

By Ruthie Bently

I have been in the retail pet industry for over twenty-five years now, and have seen many different dog breeds living with their owners in apartments. I have also seen many lists of dogs that are “suitable” for apartment living, and they included sizes from toys to giants. Then I realized one simple fact (at least for me); the best dog is the one that is right for you! In other words, if you love a dog, then you will do what you can to make it work. I lived with my first American Staffordshire Terrier in a small home with a postage stamp sized yard.

Whatever kind of dog you choose, there are a few things you should consider if you live in an apartment. Are dogs allowed in your building? Is there a limit to the size or weight of dog you can have? Do you need to put down a deposit? Do you need to supply references to the building owner? If you live in an apartment, are you willing to take the dog out at 3:00 AM to go potty? I actually had clients that lived with three Great Danes in a third floor walk up and they were very happy, but that isn’t for everyone. You should consider the dog’s daily exercise needs and energy level. How will they interact with others (pets, people and kids) in a small space? What is their temperament like? Are they hard to groom, and how trainable are they? What is their excitability level? Are they a barker and will they go off like a firecracker if they hear a noise in the hall?

Everything I have read agrees that any dog in an apartment needs exercise every day. This can help curtail boredom and the problem of having an over exuberant dog racing around the apartment when you get home. You don’t need a yard to own a dog, but the dog still needs daily exercise. A bored dog can do a lot of damage to your belongings and the apartment. There are several alternatives to a yard, including dog parks, public parks, hiking paths and dog walkers or exercisers. You could join a flyball or Disc Dog team and practice every day.

So which dog breeds are the best for apartment living? Small to medium breeds usually do better, as they need less exercise and may be less rambunctious. Some of the smaller breeds that may work for you are: Basset Hound, Bichon Frise, Bulldog (French or English), Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Chihuahua, Chinese Crested, Cockapoo, Corgi, Dachshund, English Toy Spaniel, Italian Greyhound, Lhasa Apso, Maltese, Miniature Pinscher, Papillion, Pekingese, Pomeranian, Poodle (Miniature, Toy, or Standard), Pug, Shih Tzu, Schnauzer, Poodle, and Terriers such as Australian, Boston, Bull, Manchester, Scottish, West Highland White and Yorkshire.

As to a list of larger dogs suitable for apartment living, I hesitate to suggest too many (other than the Greyhound, which is a great couch potato). Here are some larger size dogs that, with the proper amount of daily exercise, might do okay in an apartment: Akita, Chow Chow, Collie, Boxer, Bullmastiff or Mastiff, Doberman Pinscher, German Shepherd, Great Dane, Newfoundland, Old English Sheepdog, Rottweiler, Saint Bernard, Samoyed, Shar Pei and Springer Spaniel.

Regardless of size, dog breeds with higher energy levels should be considered carefully. If not properly exercised and well-trained, these dogs can be unpredictable and can do unbelievable damage in a short amount of time. Smaller breeds can sometimes be trained to a litter box or pheromone scented papers, which can be helpful late at night. Some breeds are more prone to barking or making mischief than others. My best advice to you is to research breed characteristics before you adopt a dog. These are only my guidelines and you should pick the dog that is best for you and your lifestyle. You might also wish to check your local shelter to see if anyone has recently given up a dog that lived in an apartment. This way you not only get a dog used to living in an apartment, you are also saving a life.

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The Right Way to Discipline a Dog

By Ruthie Bently

I grew up with several dogs and got to see training methods first hand. I have seen both well trained and unruly dogs and have found that the old maxim is true: “you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar.” As I get older, my life experiences have taught me that this is true and I have been applying it to my training methods.

Growing up, if a dog had an “accident” in the house they got their nose rubbed in it. In my mind all this resulted in was a dirty nose which had to be cleaned. One of my favorite memories (though probably not for my grandfather) happened on a Sunday morning. Grandpa was reading his paper in the living room, with it spread on the floor in front of the couch. Grandma’s dog Peggy came in, walked right over to the newspaper, and relieved herself. Grandpa started blustering for Grandma to come get her “damn” dog. Grandma picked up Peggy and dutifully carried her outside, praising her the whole time. You see, Peggy had been trained to go on newspaper and though hers was in the kitchen, she probably thought Grandpa’s paper was for her.

Growing up, if a dog chewed something “off limits” they got hit on the butt with it. I remember watching the floor near a dog being hit with the damaged item and the dog cringing. When my dog Katie’s playmate passed, she grieved and took to chewing shoes. I put them behind a closed closet door on a high shelf, and she still got to them. This taught me to take responsibility for my own actions around the house, yard and anywhere else Katie would be. Things she could reach had to be moved out of reach or it was my fault that she got them. This means if you leave your cell phone, glasses or TV remote where your dog can reach them, you have to take responsibility for your dog being able to get to them – and believe me dogs can be very inventive.

When your dog does something wrong they should be disciplined, but while they may know you are angry at them, they may not know why. Catching them in the “naughty” act is easier to discipline because if it is after the fact, they won’t understand what you are mad about. If your dog chews something inappropriate, take it away from them. Tell them “NO” in a strong voice and hand them something that is OK to chew. Using praise to get them to chew their own toy or taking them outside for a game of “catch the chewy” will help.

If you have been away and the dog had an accident in the house, you may have been gone too long. While Skye is housebroken, she does have accidents from time to time. I take any solids outside to her “potty” spot and leave them. If the stain is liquid, I mop it up, carry the paper towels outside and put them in the composter after showing Skye where she is supposed to go.

Several articles I’ve read on discipline agree that you need to take responsibility for your actions, and your dog will react to body language you project when you are angry. An angry scowl, raised voice or hands on your hips is a dead giveaway. Don’t get me wrong, it’s hard to smile and make nice when the dog has just done something naughty. However, beating, yelling and shouting will only make your dog more fearful of you. It also makes them less likely to come the next time they hear your angry voice. Try to keep your voice quiet and project a sense of calm when calling your dog after a misdeed, and then discipline them.

One of my clients came home one day to find that their Border Collie had torn the fringe off an antique rug in the living room. They liked the rug there and didn’t want to ban the dog from the living room. They respected their dog enough to try and figure out why it was suddenly acting out. We did some research and found that the dog had herded sheep and the rug was made of wool. The dog, trying to herd the “perceived sheep” was nipping the fringe off the rug, much as it would nip the heels of the sheep to get them to move. The rug got repaired and moved to another room.

Respecting your dog is an important aspect of proper discipline. When I trained my first dog, I added several training books to my library. Now almost thirty later I’m reading about a newer concept that makes more sense to me: respect. I’m not trying to humanize my dog but she is a sentient creature and when I treat her with respect, I get better results than if I treat her like a “dumb animal.” This means not overtraining Skye, and making sure there is a balance between training, working time and playtime. I’ve found this to be a happy medium and though we still have issues sometimes, Skye personally likes the “honey” method.

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How to Choose the Right Dog Obedience Class

By Ruthie Bently

It’s very important to find the right obedience class for you and your dog, whether they are a puppy or an adult. If you get into a class that is too advanced, not advanced enough or not the right fit, it can spoil the training experience for both of you. It can put you off obedience training, and put your dog off wanting to go to class and learn.

The age of your dog will help determine what kind of an obedience class to look for. Does your dog need basic training, or are you looking for something more advanced? When I brought my first dog Nimber home, he was only six weeks old and no class would take him because he was too young.

If you got your dog from a breeder, does the breeder want you to show the dog? If so, you will want to get into a confirmation class, which is a bit different from a regular obedience course. Your breeder should be able to help you find one if you can’t find one locally. Usually, training facilities will have more than one class for different ages. If you can get your puppy into a class at about three to four months, so much the better; the younger the puppy the faster they seem to learn. Unfortunately, many training classes don’t accept puppies under six months old.

To find an obedience class, ask your veterinarian, friends and family members, and check with your local park district office or YMCA. After you find a class that you may be interested in, call the facility and ask to see their training area. Does it look clean and well maintained, or does it smell of urine and feces? This is important because puppies can pick up bacteria and worms just by walking across a dirty floor. Do they have indoor facilities for bad weather or classes held during winter months? After you finish your first class, are there subsequent classes that teach the next levels of obedience training?

Some trainers will let you audit their class; this will help you determine if this is the right class for you and your dog. If you are able to audit a class, get there early so you can see the class from the beginning. Is there a recap session at the beginning of each class where you can show the trainer what your dog has done? This helps the trainer determine if your dog is doing the command correctly and if you are teaching it correctly.

Watch the trainer carefully to see if their method is one you can agree with. Is the trainer and staff congenial, or are they just passing time? Are they kind to the dogs or do they manhandle them? Get the trainer’s permission to talk to some of the students that are in class the night you visit. Ask them about the trainer’s methods, how well they interact with the dogs and how well they explain the commands you need to teach your dog. This may sound trivial, but it is important that you can understand what the trainer is trying to teach you and that the learning environment is beneficial to both you and your dog.

How long has the trainer been teaching, and what are their qualifications? Does the class instructor require a health certificate or vaccination record for all the dogs? If they don’t, you may want to think twice about participating in this training class. Before taking your dog to any obedience class make sure they have had all the appropriate inoculations; you don’t want your dog getting sick from another dog in class that may not be inoculated correctly.

The size of the obedience class is important as well; it will determine how much “hands on” assistance you will get from your trainer. If the class is too large, the trainer may be spread too thin and may miss something that you and your dog need to work on. I was able to get Nimber into a class with fourteen other dogs and our trainer had two assistants to help her. In my opinion, a good class size is between ten and fifteen dogs.

Every dog, no matter the age, needs to be obedient or you could have the equivalent of a “terrible two-year old” on your hands. By doing your research, you can find an obedience class that both you and your dog will want to attend. The benefits of an obedience training class are many; not to mention that you and your dog will make new friends, and you will have a well-mannered dog that is a joy to be around.

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Fire Safety for Your Pets

By Ruthie Bently

Fire safety is just as important for our pets as it is for us. You can get window decals that let fire personnel know how many and what kind of animals are in your house. Most firefighters will attempt to save household pets if they can. Some fire departments now even have special oxygen masks to fit pets’ faces, as human ones are usually too large for them.

Do you have a fire safety procedure that includes your pets? You should have an evacuation plan and a prearranged place to meet in case of an emergency. Start by getting every member of the family involved; if you have older kids or teenagers, you can assign each of them a pet to be responsible for. Have a family meeting and make an evacuation plan. Your evacuation plan should include multiple methods of leaving your house if your main door is inaccessible. If you live in a multi-level home, you may want to invest in a safety ladder in case anyone has to leave from an upper story.

So how do you prepare to evacuate your pets in case of a fire? Practice, practice, practice. It is a good idea to make sure your pet(s) are comfortable with their carriers. With repetitive training you can even train them to go into their carriers, by using a treat or a favorite toy as a bribe. By doing this once a week, you can get them used to going in their carriers in case of an emergency. If you have a pet that gets nervous, there are several holistic preparations available to help calm them down.

If you have a cat that goes under a bed and won’t come out, get a pillow case and put the cat in it and knot the neck. The cat will be able to breathe through the pillow case though will not be able to see what is going on, and should be less stressed. It is a good idea to have your pet’s health records in a file near the front door. You should have collars, leads and name tags for all your animals even if they don’t usually wear them. If you keep their carriers and emergency equipment near the door you hope to leave from, this will make your task that much easier.

You should also have the proper tools in your house to help prevent a fire; these include fire extinguishers, smoke and carbon monoxide detectors and a safety ladder if your house has more than one story. We have two fire extinguishers; one in the kitchen and one in the living room. If you have a fireplace in the living room, you should have a fire extinguisher nearby.

Fire extinguishers come in different styles, depending on what kind of fires they are used to fight. Attach the extinguisher to a wall, away from children and heat sources, but still accessible. When purchasing a fire extinguisher, discuss what kind of fire you may encounter, so you can get the proper extinguisher and one you can handle easily. Learn how to use your fire extinguisher and don’t wait until you have a fire to try it out.

Another very important fire safety tool is a working smoke detector. You should have one near the kitchen and one between the living room and bedrooms; if your home is multi-leveled you should have one on each level. There are several varieties of smoke detectors to choose from, including some which help the hearing impaired. Most are battery operated and should be tested at least once a month. The batteries should be replaced at least once a year, although the fire department suggests changing them with the daylight savings time change every six months.

Last but not least is a carbon monoxide detector. Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of fossil fuel combustion, which includes oil, wood, propane, natural gas and coal. Because it is colorless, tasteless and odorless, many people and their pets die every year from carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide can build up in any area that is not well ventilated, where there is a stove or fireplace that uses any of the above mentioned fuels. Some of the danger signs to look for are a fire that is hard to light, a fire that goes out or burns slowly, gas flames that burn yellow or orange instead of blue, and soot on or around the appliance being used. Carbon monoxide poisoning can affect both humans and pets; symptoms include headaches, nausea, dizziness, feeling drowsy or tiredness. Having a carbon monoxide detector in the house can help measure levels before they get out of hand and become an emergency that sends you or your pets to the hospital.

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How to Dog Proof Your Home

By Ruthie Bently

Before you adopt a puppy or an adult dog, it’s a good idea to evaluate what you need to do to dog proof your home, i.e., to make it safe for your new friend. It’s easy to see why you should “puppy proof” your home, but why do it for an adult dog? An older dog needs the same consideration as a puppy because you may not know the situation the dog came from. If they were primarily an outdoor dog or lived in a kennel, there are many things your new dog may not have encountered before, which may seem like wonderful new toys to them.

So where do you start? Make a list of rooms to check, which should include all those you spend time in, as well as closets, storage rooms and the garage. Next, go room to room and evaluate the dangers or temptations your new dog may encounter. If you know the size of your new companion, getting down to their level to evaluate the room is a good way to find potential temptations. You will find more things by looking at the room from your dog’s eye view than you might by looking at it from your regular height.

In the living room, look for any exposed electrical cords the dog could trip over or chew on. Other items of interest include television remotes, cell phones and computer mice. Any item that contains batteries can be harmful if your dog decides to make it their new chew toy. Check desktops and tables the dog may be able to get to, and move all items that could be dangerous out of the dog’s reach. Window blind and curtain cords can be a strangulation danger for a pet. Check that they are at least 30” off the floor; if they aren’t you can purchase cord shorteners. You may want to move your knick knacks to a higher place, as a dog with a longer tail can empty a tabletop with just a few sweeps of their tail and won’t understand why your face is turning color when they are just happy you are home.

Your new dog will probably be spending time in the kitchen, so remove any temptations here too. Make sure your garbage is behind a door, has a tight fitting lid or is above the level your dog can reach. If you use recycling bins you will want to keep them out of the dog’s way; dogs can cut themselves investigating any cans or broken glass they might find. All cleaning supplies should be stored out of the dog’s reach. If you store your dish detergent and cleaning supplies under the sink, you can purchase cabinet latches that are not only kid proof, but dog proof too.

In the bathroom, move all soaps, toilet bowl cleaners and deodorizers to a safe location, since some dogs are attracted by the scents of these items. I actually had my bathroom and living room “toilet papered” by a dog that loved to play with toilet paper. He’d pull it all off the roll and go racing around the house with it flowing behind him. You can thwart this by getting a toilet paper guard, or hanging the dispenser up high. In the laundry room, install a shelf behind the laundry center for your supplies. You could also dedicate a shelf in your pantry to all the chemical cleaners, deodorizers and cleaning tools.

If you have children, get them a toy chest and keep it in their bedroom. The dog may be attracted to their toys and the small pieces can be dangerous for them. This will also keep your dog from chewing up your child’s stuffed animals and Barbie dolls.

The last room to dog proof is the garage. Although your dog may not spend time in the garage, some of the most dangerous things for them are found here. Anti-freeze is a well known pet hazard, but gasoline, paint, oil, brake and transmission fluids can be dangerous too.

Outlet plugs are a good idea for any unused electrical outlets around the house. A dog that isn’t housebroken may lift his leg on a wall plug; this inexpensive item can save you from a power outage or something more serious. The previously mentioned cabinet latches are also good for keeping dogs out of lower cabinets that may contain pots, pans and cleaning chemicals.

My friend used to store her two-liter bottles of soda in a floor height cabinet without a latch, until her dog got into it and grabbed a full soda bottle to play with. The pop bottle survived the bounce out of the cabinet, but didn’t survive the subsequent playtime with toenails and teeth. While this was more of a messy situation than a dangerous situation, it shows why dog proofing your house is a good idea.

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How to Deal With Depression in Dogs

By Ruthie Bently

Do dogs get depressed? Yes, just like humans, dogs can suffer from bouts of depression. When my AmStaff Nimber passed, his canine companion Katie went into a depression and began misbehaving. I realized that Katie was grieving and began looking for another AmStaff to add to our family, which solved the problem. While this helped in my situation, it isn’t for everyone.

Several other things can lead to depression in dogs. It can be something as simple as the weather or changes in barometric pressure. Other causes of depression in dogs can be the loss of a close companion, either human or canine. If you begin working longer hours and cannot spend as much time with your dog as you used to, or if you and your dog used to meet a dog regularly for a play date and don’t anymore, that could bring on depression. To counteract this, try socializing with your dog more at the dog park, show more attention and affection, and try to schedule more time for your dog. If this isn’t possible, look for a doggie day care where you can leave them for a play date, or hire a dog walker to give them more daily activity. If you can’t take your dog with you on vacation, find a kennel that gives your dog extra exercise or allows them to play with other dogs so they aren’t in a crate all day.

Moving to a new house can cause depression in dogs, because your dog may be unsure of their place in these new surroundings. Make sure when you move that you take along all their current supplies (bowls, beds, toys and crate). Even if their things don’t go with the new color scheme, keep using them until your dog gets acclimated to the new house and neighborhood, and feels comfortable there. Once they feel comfortable in the new house you can start replacing their old things with new ones.

Separation anxiety and family additions can cause depression too. If you suspect your dog may be depressed, try to ease them into a new situation. If you are pregnant, try to get your dog used to the idea before the baby comes home. If you are getting a new pet, consider introducing your dog to it on neutral territory to lessen the chance of any depression.

If you do all these things and your dog is still acting depressed, it’s a good idea to see your vet to make sure the problem isn’t caused by something physical. Some illnesses can lead to depression in dogs, or they could have a chemical imbalance. They could also have a hormonal imbalance like hyperthyroidism, which might lead to depression.

Some of the symptoms of dog depression are being unresponsive when you call them, excessive sleeping or lethargy, loss of interest in drinking water and a lack of appetite or weight loss. Their behavior may change and become aggressive or anxious. If you suspect your dog has any of these symptoms consult your veterinarian as soon as possible. If these symptoms persist for any length of time they can become life threatening.

If you suspect your dog is depressed, review any changes you’ve been made recently in their environment or routine. Has their feeding, walking or playtime schedule changed? Is it something that can be changed back? Our dogs are so sensitive to their surroundings; they can tell when we are under the weather even before we know it, and may empathize with us.

There are several medicines vets use to treat canine depression, but they’re usually a last resort. Phenobarbital is an anti-seizure medication that’s sometimes used for canine depression. It can cause kidney and liver damage, so any dog on phenobarbital needs regular blood tests. Prozac, while proven to have good results, has side effects. Your dog may be less friendly, less active and their personality may change. Phenobarbital and Prozac are only available by prescription from your vet.

There are holistic remedies, flower essences and several herbs that have been used to treat depression in dogs. While they may have no side effects, each dog’s reaction to these can be different, and many veterinarians are reluctant to use them in the treatment of canine depression. I would suggest you consult your regular veterinarian and ask to be referred to a homeopathic veterinarian if you wish to explore these treatment options. There are even therapists you can take your dog to, and they may use aromatherapy or music to help improve your dog’s mood. As with any other health issue concerning your dog, see your vet before making any changes that involve medicine or alternative therapies.

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Tips for Buying or Building a Dog House

By Ruthie Bently

Here in Minnesota, while the season on the calendar is still fall, it feels more like winter, sans snow. Skye does have a dog house, though she does not have to use it for winter shelter because she is never left outside. In any country that has a winter season, it is best to have a dog house for those very cold days and nights. Dogs that have no shelter of any kind can get frostbite on their feet, tails and ear tips. They can also suffer from hypothermia which can cause more permanent damage if not treated quickly enough.

You can buy a dog house, or you can make one yourself if you are handy. Visit your local library for do-it-yourself books on how to make a dog house, which will usually include plans. You can probably even find free dog house plans on the Internet. Whether you buy a dog house or make it yourself, the things you should look for are the same.

One thing to consider is the height of the interior space of the dog house. Your dog should be able to get in, turn around and lay down. They don’t have to hold their head up, but should be able to walk into the house without bending their knees. Think of it like your dog’s outdoor den, or (if you use a crate in the house) your dog’s outdoor crate without a door. It should be comfortable for them to get into if they need to. For example, Skye fits well into a crate that is 36” long x 24” wide and 26” high; so if I were looking for a dog house I would look for one with those basic measurements. An important thing to remember is that the dog’s body heat keeps the house warm, so if it is too large your dog won’t be able to stay warm.

Another important factor is that you don’t want your dog house to sit right on the ground. Instead, you want a bit of clearance between the floor of the house and the ground. Rain, snow and ice can get into the floor of the dog house if it sits right on the ground, causing it to deteriorate. Clearance will also keep insects from getting into the dog house, and allows air to circulate. Try to find a dog house with an offset door; this will help keep the winter winds from whistling in and keep snow off your dog as well. One with a baffle pattern is good, but again your dog has to be able to maneuver without too much trouble. If the roof is peaked, you may want to get a sheet of insulated wallboard for extra warmth. A dog house with a shingled roof is a plus, and will protect the roof of the house from the weather.

To cover the floor you can get a piece of indoor/outdoor carpeting, which makes it easier to clean. On top of that you can put an old quilt or down comforter. If you use a down comforter, get a good heavy cover for it, as your dog will probably want to make a nest. Several clean, old rugs work well as bedding too. There are even heated pads you can purchase, but if you use one of these, the dog has to be able to get off of it if they want to. You can also use a nest of straw, but make sure it is clean and mold-free. I like to use old comforters, and can buy them for a few dollars at the thrift store. They are nice and thick, and Skye loves to dig in them in her crate.

If you get a dog house and want to put it into a dog run, make sure your dog run has a top on it. Your dog could use the house as a launching place to get over the dog run fence. If your run does not have a top or is too small for the dog house, you can cut an access panel through the dog run fence, butt the dog house up to the fence and anchor it to the fence. This will keep your dog from pushing it out of the way and trying to escape the dog run. You may also want to use tie downs if the dog house is lightweight and you live in a particularly windy area. I am a fan of wooden dog houses and have had good luck with them, but these tips will apply to any dog (or cat) house you get to protect your pets from the elements.

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Volunteering for a Cageless Shelter

By Ruthie Bently

I had a wonderful experience and found many new friends, both two and four-legged, when I volunteered for a cageless shelter. I had a client in Illinois who came into the pet shop I managed looking harried and a bit rattled. I found out she was the founder of a cageless shelter. I had never heard of one before, so I asked her what made a cageless shelter different from a regular animal shelter. She explained that the animals stayed with volunteers in their homes rather than in cages. The reason she was so harried was that she was taking care of three litters of newborn kittens, and was looking for volunteers to place other animals that had come in. I offered to help with the kittens, but she asked if I would consider helping her with a cat instead. The cat needed a safe, quiet place to stay, as it looked like she had been bullied and was a bit timid. I said “yes” and began to learn about cageless shelters, and what wonderful places they can be.

A cageless shelter is much like a regular shelter in that each person coming in to adopt must go through a screening process. There is an adoption fee and all the animals have been to a vet for a full check up, worming (if needed), vaccinations, spaying or neutering, checking for fleas, ticks and ear mites, and a bath and nail clipping (if needed); cats are usually also tested for FIV and Feline Leukemia.

A cageless shelter can be a large facility that houses dogs and cats in large common areas as opposed to separate cages, or it can be a smaller facility with volunteers that keep the adoptable pets with them in their homes until they find a home. As a pet is adopted out from a volunteer’s home, another soon takes it place.

One nice aspect of the second kind of shelter is that each pet gets one-on-one attention from the volunteer they live with. If a dog needs training, the shelter may have the volunteer take it to a class. Depending on the availability of funds, the supplies and food for the pet may be provided for the volunteer. Each cageless shelter has different rules and regulations, but most request that if the pet is no longer wanted by their adoptive family, that they be returned to the shelter. The cageless shelter I worked with even issued each adopted pet a tag with the shelter’s name and phone number, in case it ever got lost.

I liked the idea of interacting with a cat that was in need of tender loving care. I didn’t own a cat at the time and was happy for the companionship. I was responsible for getting Gwen to the vet to be spayed and two weeks later, taking her back to have her stitches out. After that, she came back home with me to await a call which would unite her with a family of her own. It was then that my life took a turn in a different direction.

A young couple wanted to come see Gwen, who had been living with me for about twelve weeks. Although I was happy for Gwen, I was a bit sad that I would lose her companionship. I greeted the two warmly and went to get Gwen, who greeted them as if they were old friends. Gwen was a beautiful calico with a coat of orange, black and white, and the most beautiful green eyes I’d ever seen.

Upon seeing Gwen the young woman said “Oh no, she just won’t do.” I was flabbergasted and tried to hold back my surprise. I asked if it was her age or her gender. The woman replied that Gwen was the wrong color. “The wrong color?” I asked. The woman told me she wanted a white cat because all her furniture was white and Gwen’s hair would get all over the furniture. I thanked her for her candor, and saw them out.

The car had not even left the driveway before I was on the phone with the shelter letting my supervisor know how the interview had gone, what they felt was wrong with Gwen, and that I had decided to adopt her myself. I kept thinking about muddy feet prancing across that white furniture if they ever let a white cat outside.

The time I spent working as a volunteer with a cageless shelter was a very rewarding experience. I would recommend it to anyone wanting to volunteer their time to work with animals for a good cause. The interaction and time you spend with a pet in your care can help the pet become more socialized, and gives them a better chance of finding their own forever home.

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November is “Adopt a Senior Pet Month”

By Ruthie Bently

Petfinder.com is a virtual, searchable database of adoptable animals, shelters and adoption organizations in the U.S., Canada and Mexico. Petfinder.com has designated November as “Adopt a Senior Pet Month,” which I think is a wonderful idea. Many senior pets end up in shelters every year, often because their human passes away without making arrangements for them. I have adopted several older pets, so I know firsthand that there are many advantages to choosing a senior citizen pet over a younger one.

The very first cat my ex-husband and I ever adopted came from a shelter, and was an older cat. We walked into the cat room, and as I passed a cage this paw shot out and tapped me on the arm. I turned, looked into eyes green as grass, saw a hair coat that looked black but glistened chocolate brown in the bright sunshine, and was lost. My husband was not smitten; he wanted a kitten.

If you are undecided about getting a pet, an older animal is a good way to go. I knew that older pets in shelters are adopted last; I didn’t know they are also usually the first to be euthanized. By adopting an older pet you are saving a life and should give yourself a pat on the back. You’ll still have food bills and regular vet visits, but because of their age they will not be with you as long as a puppy or kitten would. If you are looking for a certain kind of dog or cat, you would be able to try out the breed without a long-term commitment.

An older pet will already be spayed or neutered; most shelters will not adopt out a pet that isn’t. There will be no puppy or kitten shots to get, no teething or chewing on inappropriate things (such as shoes or electric cords), and no kitten climbing your curtains or unfurling the toilet paper roll. You won’t have to deal with puppy potty breaks at two in the morning in the rain or snow, or clean up after a kitten still learning how to use the litter box. The majority of older pets have already been housebroken, already have their permanent teeth and usually have basic obedience skills. And older dogs will settle into your routine quickly and without much fuss because they’ve been a pack member and understand the hierarchy.

When you adopt a senior pet you get to see their personality when you meet them, and not have to wait for it to develop. You’ll be able to see if they are laid back or highly active. You’ll find that senior citizen dogs will like chilling out more than younger dogs. While older dogs still need some exercise and do enjoy it, you won’t have to walk them five miles every day, as you would a young Labrador or Golden Retriever. You will know pretty quickly what kind of shedding, brushing and grooming you are going to have with senior pets. You won’t get any surprises about their size either, since they are finished growing.

If you have to be away from home for several hours, you don’t have to go rushing home to let them out to go potty or exercise, as you would with a puppy. An older dog or cat will greet you warmly when you get home and not be bouncing off the walls. Because of their age, older pets are calmer. If you wanted to enroll in open obedience classes, or teach your older dog some of those tricks you’ve seen other dogs learn, go for it. Their age and sereneness will give you an edge on training; their attention span is longer than a puppy’s, and they will be able to learn faster.

Remember that green-eyed black cat? His name was Keentya, and he ended up in the shelter because his owner had passed away without making provisions for him in her will. After some begging on my part, and a discussion that outlined many of the points above, we went home with this beautiful older cat. He latched onto our hearts and never let go. Keentya was great in the car and traveled to Pennsylvania with us for holidays for several years before his passing. He became such a member of our family that one relative even made him his own pillow and embroidered pillow case with his name on it.

While none of my older adopted pets’ time with me was long enough, given the chance I would adopt a senior pet again in an instant. The benefits far outweigh the shortness of time they spent with me, and the blessings they gave me were many.

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Breed Profile: Irish Wolfhound, the Gentle Giant

By Ruthie Bently

The Irish Wolfhound breed has an interesting past. One of the earliest records of the Irish Wolfhound comes from the Roman Consul Quintus Aurelius, in 391 A.D. He wrote about seven that he received as a gift, though there is some thought that the breed may have arrived in Ireland as early as 3500 B.C. They were used by the Romans as guards for their stock, castles and families. They were also used as warriors in battle to drag men off horseback or out of chariots, as well as for hunting game like the very large Irish elk and wolves. Irish Wolfhounds were also considered a family pet, and were allowed to play with children.

With the extinction of the Irish elk and wolves, the breed almost became extinct itself. Because there was such a worldwide demand for the Irish Wolfhound, Oliver Cromwell created a law to ban their export from Ireland. Nevertheless, by the nineteenth century there were not many Wolfhounds left in Ireland. Enter Captain George August Graham, who in 1862 began to restore the breed. He gathered the last specimens of the breed, and by using a Borzoi, Tibetan Mastiff, Great Danes and Deerhounds was able to recover the size and style of the original Irish Wolfhound. Under his supervision, in 1885 with the founding of the Irish Wolfhound club, the first breed standard was made. In 1981, the Irish Wolfhound Society was founded by Mrs. Florence Nagle, and every year both the society and the club hold a rally and a championship show and open.

The Irish Wolfhound is the tallest and largest of the hound group, with a rough coat. He has keen sight, is very swift and powerful with a commanding appearance and a strong muscular frame. The size range for height should be between 30 and 34 inches at the shoulder with the minimum for females being 30 inches and a weight of 105 pounds; males should be 32 to 34 inches at the shoulder and weigh about 120 pounds. They should have good symmetry and power while being active and showing courage.

While Irish Wolfhounds are known as “gentle giants,” it should be remembered that they are historically a hunting dog. They are usually friendly and even tempered, but socializing them early is very important. They are generally good with other dogs and people, and most Wolfhounds love children. However, they may not do well around other types of animals because of their natural instincts. One good outlet for this behavior is lure coursing, which also helps with their need for exercise.

Because of their size and exercise requirements, you should carefully consider whether a Wolfhound is the right breed for you. Although they can be kept in a city, it is not the best place for them. The ideal situation for them is a property that is fenced and has sufficient room for them to run and gallop, as their size demands. As an adult, these dogs are a calm, loving family member and do best with daily human companionship.

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