How to Help Your Dog Overcome a Fear of Water

By Ruthie Bently

Why are some dogs afraid of water? I have read that some breeds are predisposed to a fear of water, but I don’t agree with that. If a dog is afraid of water, many experts feel it is because they had a bad experience when they were younger. Another reason a dog may be afraid of water is because they don’t know what it is. Water comes in several forms and is found in many places and situations.

A dog growing up in a kennel situation, going outside to go potty in a cement run covered from the weather will have no experience with wet grass on their paws or feeling snow or raindrops on their skin. It makes sense that a dog in that situation would not have any experience with water and may not understand it. I think instinct may have to do with the initial fear of water some dogs have. If a dog is wary of something they don’t understand and keeps their distance, it is less apt to harm them.

Wolves are not afraid of water and they have to hunt to feed their families whether it is raining or snowing. They cover long distances and depending on the season have to cross water, ice and snow to get from one place to another. Our domestic dogs haven’t had to live outdoors for hundreds of years and are no longer as in tune to the changes in weather that their wild counterparts are. Don’t get me wrong, dogs do feel the barometric pressure change when a storm is moving in. However, most are inside where the temperature is constant and they don’t feel the cold or heat of the day; and they don’t sit watching the weather outside change.

How do you get your dog used to water? You can train your dog to be accepting of water gradually, using understanding, patience, praise and dog treats as bait (if you need them). It may take several tries if they have gotten scared by water in the past. Try not to become frustrated if it doesn’t happen the way you want the first time you try it. If your dog is afraid of rain, take their favorite toy outside and play a game with them while it is raining. You can use this method when it is snowing too; just make sure you can see the toy in the snow. Praise them and offer a treat when they bring the toy back. If they have a problem with dewy grass, take them for a walk in the early morning or invite one of their dog friends over for an early morning play session while the grass is still wet. They will be interested in playing and forget about the wet grass.

Maybe your dog is fearful of taking a bath because they fell in the bathtub when they were young, went under and got a mouth full of water. Try getting them used to shallow water using a kiddie pool with a piece of non-skid shelf liner in the bottom so they won’t fall. Fill it with a few inches of water, get in and coax them in with you using a treat. Gently apply water to them and show them it isn’t as scary as they think. If you have a small dog, use a dishpan filled with warm water instead.

If your dog is afraid of water in general, try taking them to a lake with a beach or a gentle sloping bank that allows them to walk in on their own. Plan your trip on a day when the wind is calm, so there will be less wave action that may make them nervous. Attach a six foot lead to their collar and use praise and a treat to coax them into the water. If they don’t want to enter the water don’t force the issue. Return another day and repeat the exercise.

Skye is one of those dogs that isn’t entirely sure about water. She’s not afraid of a bath, though she is glad when it is over. She doesn’t like rain but she loves playing in the snow and has to be cajoled to come back inside. I had to teach Skye about the water in her kiddie pool but she goes charging into the river when we take a walk there. She wasn’t always so accepting of water, but over time she discovered that it isn’t the demon she thought it was. By understand your dog and using patience, praise and treats, you can help a dog who is fearful of water, learn to enjoy getting wet.

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Is Your Dog Right or Left Footed?

By Ruthie Bently

I never considered that my dog might favor one foot over the other until I noticed it firsthand. Just as humans have a dominant hand and are either right or left-handed, so do our pets. Dogs have a dominant foot, either right or left. I first became interested one day watching Skye climb the attic stairs; she always began (led) with her left foot. This made me wonder if she favored one foot over the other, so I watched her and found out that she did. When we are outside playing and I toss her ball, she goes racing up to it and hits it with her left foot first to get it to spin. When she is investigating something in the yard and wants to turn it over, she uses her left foot.

That made me curious as to how many other dogs are right or left-pawed, what the percentage of right over left might be, and if there were there any ambidextrous dogs. According to one report I read from 2001, dogs are about 80% right footed and 20% left footed. According to a study conducted by psychologists of Queen’s University in Belfast, Ireland, female dogs are right-footed and males are left-footed until they are spayed or neutered. Then the report says the differences disappear and it further suggests that hormones play a part in whether a dog is right or left-footed. That theory goes out the window with Skye. She is spayed and she is definitely a left-footed dog.

Using one paw in favor of the other is called lateralization, and until recently most scientists thought our animals were ambidextrous. Now they are finding that we are not the only species on the planet to favor one hand (or paw) over the other. It is believed that favoring one foot over the other improves an animal’s chances to find a mate, forage for food or escape predators. Do our left-footed companions suffer from the same stigmas as left-handed people used to? Not according to the faculty of Veterinary Science at the University of Sydney. They say left-pawed dogs are favored for training as guide and police dogs.

So how do you discover if your dog is right or left-pawed? Here is a test to help you find out. You need a tube and several dog treats. The tube can be made of either cardboard or plastic; I used the tube from a roll of gift wrap. It should be wide enough for your dog to reach into with their paw but not their head. I tried this test and used CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ which worked great. Put the treat in the end of the tube and hold the tube out to your dog, making sure they can see the treat. Encourage them to get the treat. Do this test three times with three treats. If your dog is afraid of the tube, try setting the treat about six inches in from the edge of a piece of furniture within your pet’s reach, and watch what happens. Which paw does your pet use to reach for the treat?

If your dog uses their right paw most of the time, they are probably right-footed. If your dog uses their left paw most of the time, they are left-footed. If they don’t seem to have a preference and use both paws to reach the treat, they are probably ambidextrous. I am sure there will be more research into this subject in the future. It is also thought that the research done so far will further dog training and the appropriate age to train a dog (as it refers to being right or left-footed), as well as improving the bond between people and their dogs.

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Basic Supplies Needed for a New Dog

By Ruthie Bently

Bringing home a new dog, whether it’s a puppy or an adult, is like bringing home a new baby – you need to be prepared, and you need supplies. You should have a collar with an identification tag on it in case your dog gets lost. Even if you have a fenced yard for your dog to play in, you should have a leash for those trips to the vet or walks around the neighborhood. I suggest a six foot nylon leash unless your dog is an adult and not chewing anymore. Nylon is a sturdy material and stands up to most things except a determined chewer. Six feet is a good length, as it gives your dog enough room to step away from you to go potty and still gives you enough control. It will also keep your dog from tripping you up by accident.

You will need a supply of dog food of course (I use the CANIDAE Grain Free, four meat meal formula) and you will probably want dog treats too (I use both CANIDAE Snap-Biscuit® and Snap-Bits™ treats). You’ll want to get a set of bowls for their food and water; I prefer stainless steel because they are easy to keep clean and resist rusting. I’ve had the same set of bowls for over twenty years now and have never had an issue with rust. When I got my first puppy I bought bowls for the adult size dog that I knew my puppy would be when full grown. This way you only have to make the purchase once. I have a set of three quart bowls, which are a good size for any medium to large sized breed.

When you need to confine your new puppy or dog, such as when they need a time out or you just need a break, a dog crate is nice to have on hand. Dogs, like their wolf cousins, have an instinct to “den” and a crate is a good place they can call their own. If you have an aversion to crating your dog but aren’t quite ready to give them the run of the house, a pair of dog gates is a good way to confine them to a specific room. A washable fleece pad is a perfect choice for a teething puppy, and if your dog is past the chewing stage you can get them a regular bed so they have their own place to sleep.

Don’t forget to buy some toys to keep your new dog occupied. I like to have an assortment of chewing and interactive toys, and Skye also has a flying disc and a 10” ball she can chase in the yard, as well as sterilized and nylon bones for when she is on her own. She also has a cotton rope tug but isn’t allowed to play with that herself. If you choose a stuffed toy for your dog, don’t leave them alone with it and keep an eye on them when they are playing with it to prevent them from tearing it to shreds.

Dog shampoo is good to have on hand for a bath or spot cleaning if your dog rolls in something. I have an oatmeal based shampoo and a dry shampoo for Skye because I like the ease of giving her a spot bath if she gets her feet dirty after a walk in the mud. Make sure you get a shampoo made specifically for dogs though. The ph of a dog’s hair is different than ours, and you could harm their skin and coat by using shampoo made for people. You can also find tearless dog shampoos that won’t burn their eyes.

If you plan to groom your dog yourself, you will need a brush and comb suitable for your dog’s coat. You’ll also need a set of nail clippers and styptic powder for when their toenails need clipping. Grooming your dog is a great way to bond with them. Other items you may want to consider are a scooper for the yard and biodegradable poop bags for walks. Natural cleaners and deodorizers are handy to have for those unforeseen accidents, and an anti-chew product is a good idea for a new puppy.

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Dressing Your Dog on a Budget

By Ruthie Bently

Everyone has been hit by the bad economy and I have come up with a wonderful way to help dress your dog, without having to spend a lot of money. This will work whether you are looking for a t-shirt, sweater or winter coat for your own dog.

My boyfriend was recently laid off and money has been tight lately. However, we have always been thrifty. Most of our household heat comes from a wood stove, we grow our own vegetables and raise chickens for their eggs, go to garage and yard sales during warmer weather, and when making trips into town we try to carpool with other family members. Although our winter wardrobes have been taken care of and the cats have longer hair coats so don’t need any outdoor clothing, my American Staffordshire Terrier, Skye, is different.

Skye is on medication, and one of the side effects is a hair coat that is thinner and shorter than normal. While her hair does get longer when it gets colder, it isn’t what it could be. Skye will forgive me for saying this, but she is a wimp when it comes to cold. At night she will burrow under the blankets so that only her nose is sticking out, and she stays that way all night long. The problem for me is my dear little wimp loves to go for rides with me, no matter what the weather. I don’t take her when it is too cold, but she has to see the vet every six months for tests. Since the vet is an hour away, I have to be able to take her with me during cold weather, and she needs to be warm enough.

I stumbled on the solution to dressing my dog on a budget when I was in a little resale shop this summer. While going through the clothing racks I found a child’s sweatshirt and wondered if it might fit Skye. The sleeves looked a bit long, but the chest was wide and it had a hood, which was a plus because it would keep the wind out of her short ears.

Measuring your dog for clothes should be done while they are standing. For the length, you should measure from the base of their neck to the base of their tail. It helps to also measure the dog’s leg from the shoulder to the wrist (carpal). Use the leg measurement for the sleeve length so your dog won’t be tripping over the sleeves. I also measure the width between Skye’s legs which helps determine the chest size I need, as she is a deep-chested dog.

The main difference between clothes made for us and those made for dogs is that human clothes sometimes fit your dog better if they are put on backwards. For example, a t-shirt with a picture on the front gets worn so the picture is on the dog’s back. Jackets get put on and zipped up the dog’s back. If your dog is a bit touchy about trying on or wearing clothes, use a treat such as the CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ to help get them dressed.

Some resale shops do not take returns especially if the item is on sale. Make sure you take a tape measure and your measurements along with you, as most shops will not let you bring the dog in. Don’t limit yourself to resale shops, however; also check yard sales and your local recycling center if they take clothing. Also, many thrift stores have a “discount day” when their prices are lower.

I went when their prices were 50% off and got Skye several sweatshirts, t-shirts and a jacket for under $5.00. You can use the same measurements for buying costumes or holiday clothing for your dog. Remember that anything you purchase should fit comfortably on your dog. It can be snug but not binding or your dog may have trouble maneuvering and not want to wear it. Make sure that when it is on your dog they have enough room to urinate or defecate or you will be washing frequently.

You can use child sized booties for your dog’s feet if it isn’t wet outside, just purchase two matching sets. I haven’t had too much luck finding good boots, as a child’s boot weighs so much more than a dog’s boot. Skye even has her own brand name jacket that I found at a thrift store for $2.00; it is pink and purple, and has a zip-out polar fleece lining. I put it on her and zip it up the back and unless it is extremely cold here, she goes for a ride.

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Save a Life: Adopt a Retired Racing Greyhound

By Ruthie Bently

An associate of mine in Colorado mentioned recently that two of the dog tracks in the state had gone out of business. He was concerned about where the greyhound dogs would be going. Now there are organizations that will try to get the racers from the track so they can help the dogs live out their lives in a good home. I have had personal experience with retired racing Greyhounds, and they are wonderful dogs. However, as retired racers they do need some special consideration due to their unique characteristics.

While all dogs are pack animals, track Greyhounds are used to being with large groups of dogs since birth. It is very important to let them know early on that you are the alpha dog, as they will take over if you let them. It is not uncommon for a Greyhound to follow you, the pack leader, from room to room.

A Greyhound is related to Salukis, Afghans and other sight hounds, and is descended from southern wolf strains. They have an independent nature due to originally being raised to hunt with other hounds and develop pursuit strategies spontaneously while chasing prey. Their eyesight and senses of smell and hearing, are all very keen. They are not predators, though they have been trained to chase lures, which is in their nature.

It has been reported that some retired Greyhounds no longer wish to race. Don’t let that fool you and trust them off leash; it is a Greyhound’s natural instinct to run. They can sprint for short periods of time at a speed of 45 miles an hour. No matter how well-behaved you may think the dog is, if a Greyhound sees something to chase, nothing will bring them back to you if they are off leash. It can even be a challenge when they are leashed, since they are so strong.

Because they have never known a breed other than Greyhounds, they may be shy, frightened or confused around other dogs, and they are usually not familiar with cats. Most have never been able to be carefree puppies. As such, you may find they have some behaviors that need to be acted out (like chewing), but they do outgrow them. They also do not know how to play games, climb stairs or sit, because they were never taught; they can learn, however.

Greyhounds are very smart dogs. Though sensitive, they can be independent, are sometimes shy, inquisitive and gentle. They love walking (always leashed!), are usually used to a leash, and can learn simple commands quickly. Since they are taught to race at a very young age, a class in obedience training is recommended. You may also have to reinforce their house training by walking them outside several times a day, until they understand that the house belongs to you so they don’t mark there. Though they may be several years old when you adopt them, there are things they didn’t have a chance to learn as puppies, so remember to be especially patient with them.

Greyhounds are great learners, and like cats they will rub up against you. They need to wear a coat or sweater when outside, because they are so lean they don’t have a layer of fat, and can be affected by rain or cold weather. They are used to being crated from a young age and you should continue the practice, since they see their crate as a safe haven. Depending on what they were being fed at the track, they may not be used to eating kibble and may need a period of adjustment. This deep-chested breed can be susceptible to bloat, so it’s best to feed them at least twice a day.

Since they will probably not be getting the same exercise at your house that they did at the track, watch the food and treats closely so you don’t overfeed them. A small dog treat like CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ has few calories and is a tasty addition to the biscuit jar. Due to their height they can knock things off tables with their tail and may want to counter surf. It’s also a good idea to put the garbage can out of reach, and put a gate up when they are in a room by themselves.

Greyhounds love to sleep with their owners if they are allowed. Just make sure there is enough room on the bed for both of you. I have known several Greyhound dogs, and they make wonderful companions. When you take the time to adopt a retired racing Greyhound, you have not only made a friend for life, you have saved a beautiful creature.

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Basic Commands for Dogs: Heel and Stand

By Ruthie Bently

“Heel” is one of the most essential commands you will want to teach your dog. It is used for your most basic exercise, a walk, and your dog should be able to do it correctly. You don’t want them to stray into traffic if you are walking along the shoulder of a road or on a narrow sidewalk. When your dog is heeling correctly, they will be standing (or sitting) at your left side, depending on what command you gave them.

To teach your dog the heel command, gather your leash in your left hand and get your dog to stand next to your left side, with their shoulder against your left leg. With the leash still drawn up, begin walking slowly and repeating the word “heel” to your dog. I have found that using this method works very well, as the dog does not have enough leash to stray away from you. Do a few circuits of your yard or living room, and come back to your original position. When the dog stops next to you again, tell them “heel” and then offer them a treat such as the CANIDAE Snap-Bits™. Do this for a few days, with about three training sessions per day, and reward the dog every time they do the command correctly. If you don’t want to use biscuits, you can just praise your dog or offer them a favorite toy (although giving them a toy may distract them from the rest of the training session).

After two or three days, begin letting out the leash. If the dog begins walking away from you or straying from your side, stop moving. At this point, the dog usually looks around at you to see why you stopped, so say the word “heel.” Sometimes the dog will come back to you, sometimes not. If the dog does not immediately come back to you, begin reeling up the slack of the leash until the dog is again at your left side in the heel position and repeat the word “heel.” It won’t take long for your dog to get the idea.

“Stand” is another very important command for your dog to learn. If you have a large dog, getting them to stand in the bathtub while you are bathing them is a blessing, not to mention brushing them after their bath. It is also easier for your veterinarian to examine them if they will stand on the table or the floor so the vet can look them over for any health issues. If you have a show dog and are going to show your dog in conformation, you need to teach them to stand. The judge examines the dog’s teeth, coat, spine and general physicality when the dog is standing, and they should not move.

I teach it by putting the dog at heel while standing and then telling them to “stand.” I walk in front of the dog while they are still standing and tell them to stay while putting my hand in front of their face, and back slowly away while still facing the dog. I practice this command several times, and use praise and a cookie when the dog obeys. If your dog is lying down you can reach under their tummy and raise them up into a standing position. If you do this, you need to steady your dog as you are raising them up. Once they are standing in one place, give the command “stand” and praise them when they stay still. Again you will need repetition if your dog doesn’t get it right away.

It takes lots of love, patience, praise and treats to be successful at teaching your dog these and other commands – but the rewards of having a well-trained dog are worth it!

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Tips for Teaching Your Puppy His Name

By Julia Williams

When people adopt a puppy, one of the first things they usually do is name him. But once you’ve decided what to call your furry new friend, it’s just as important to begin immediately teaching your puppy his name. Why is it so essential? Because once your puppy learns to respond positively and immediately to his own name, teaching him other basic commands (such as sit, stay or lie down) will be much easier. When your puppy knows his name, you will be able to get him to focus his full attention on you instead of his surroundings. Thus, teaching your puppy his name is a fundamental base for any future training.

Your first objective is to teach your puppy that when you say his name, he must immediately stop whatever he's doing, turn his head and look directly at you. With consistent training and patience, your puppy will eventually understand that the sound he hears is his own name. Later, you can teach your puppy that the sound of his name will be followed by a command.

Step One: Take your puppy to a quiet place with no distractions, armed with some dog treats (CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ are perfect treats for puppies) and a few toys that your puppy enjoys playing with.

Step Two: Put your puppy on a long lead, which will help you to keep him from wandering off if something attracts his attention elsewhere.

Step Three: Using a happy tone of voice, say your puppy’s name.

Step Four: If your puppy looks in your direction when you say his name, immediately reward him with a treat and praise, such as “good doggie.” Puppies are usually very attracted to the sound of your voice, and will naturally look towards you when you speak. By giving him a treat and praising him, you reinforce the desired behavior. Only say your puppy’s name once; if he doesn't respond, you can gently tug his lead or touch his leg so he turns to look at you.

Step Five: Hold a treat up near your face so that your puppy has to look directly at you when you call his name. Doing this will ensure that you have his full attention.

Step Six: Swap a toy for the food treat, and use a few minutes of playtime as the reward for looking at you. Experiment with different treats, toys, and tones of voice to learn which ones are the best motivators for your puppy.

Step Seven: Repeat steps one through six several times during each training session until your puppy consistently looks at you when you say his name.

The next step in training your puppy to respond to his name is to introduce distractions. The goal is to teach your puppy that no matter where you are and no matter what else is happening around him, he needs to give you his full attention when you say his name. Try training him with other family members in the room, outside in your garden, at the local park or at someone else’s home.

Training your puppy in different environments or with distractions will likely be much more challenging at first (both for you and your puppy), but it is a great way to reinforce what your puppy is learning. Remember, your puppy wants to please you, so help him do that by remaining patient and taking this stage slow.

When teaching your puppy his name, it’s important that this sound only be associated with good things. In other words, try not to use your puppy’s name when you are scolding him. Otherwise, he will form a negative association with his name and may become confused or refuse to respond to you when you call his name.

Key points to remember:

* Keep your training sessions short (five or ten minutes at a time, several times each day), and keep them fun.

* Train your puppy before a meal so he’ll be more motivated to get the food treat. Just remember to account for the extra food in his daily rations, so as not to overfeed him.

* If more than one person will be teaching your puppy his name, make sure everyone understands what to do and uses the same technique.

* Be sure to give lots of praise along with the treat or toy reward, and always end each training session on a positive note.

If you follow these simple tips, your puppy will learn his name in no time at all!

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Introducing a New Dog to Your Other Pets

By Ruthie Bently

Have you ever brought home a new dog and had a battle on your hands? How do you go about introducing a new dog to your other pets or animals without that happening? It depends on the situation. I have had to go through it several times with three of my dogs, most recently with Skye. Introducing Skye to my other animals was probably the toughest, because although Skye was used to other American Staffordshire Terriers, she had never seen a cat, geese or chickens. Being a Terrier breed, she has an instinctive prey drive.

I have to admit I was a bit worried about Skye meeting the animals, because she and her cohorts were known for chasing after any animal that was unlucky enough to wander into their exercise yard at the breeder’s.

I am never foolish enough to let Skye loose outside her dog yard when the chickens are out. She has and will chase them if she can, and she does race along the inside of the fence when they are in my garden.

When she first came home, she was accosted by a gander that felt he had to let her know who was boss. Skye in turn, let him know she did not appreciate having her tush pinched by his beak, by taking off after him and giving him a run for his money. I knew how fast Skye was and realized she could catch the goose if she chose to. Skye just wanted to teach him a lesson, which he passed on because none of the geese ever bothered her after that.

I was blessed, because I was able to acclimate Skye into our household with a minimum of fuss. For the first several nights, we crated her and gave the cats time to get used to her. They could walk up to the crate safely and check Skye out without her being able to get to them and vice versa. I actually told my cat Munchkin (who had been pining since Smokey Bear passed away) that Skye was her new dog, and she should keep an eye on her. In fact, before we had the dog run installed I would leash walk Skye around the property, and Munchkin would frequently accompany us.

If you are introducing a new dog to an existing dog, the best way for them to meet for the first time is on neutral territory, which belongs to neither dog. Contact a friend or relative that doesn’t own a dog and see if they would be willing to let you use their yard for the introduction. Make sure that both dogs are leashed and introduce them gradually. Use a friendly voice and have treats like CANIDAE Snap Biscuit® or Snap-Bits™ treats on hand. Watch both dogs for any sign of aggression and separate them if you see any growling, hackles being raised, or any other sign.

Before adopting a new dog, you might want to provide them with a blanket to sleep on and bring it home before you bring them home. Dogs rely heavily on their sense of smell and in this way you can give your resident dog a new smell to get used to before the dog comes. Before bringing your new dog into the house, it is a good idea to remove any food dishes or toys that belong to your original dog. They can cause conflict and provoke a fight if your first dog is territorial. It is a good idea to segregate the new dog by using a crate or keeping them in another room, until both dogs can get used to each other. This process will also work if you are introducing a new dog to your cats.

For pets like rabbits, guinea pigs, rats, ferrets or birds, have an adult family member hold them and introduce the dog while they are leashed. This way you have some amount of control. Watch your dog for any signs of extreme interest, which could include lunging at the other pet, barking or even snapping at them. Depending on the dog’s response, age and breed, you may want to keep the pet in a room that the dog is not allowed in without supervision. If you have a puppy and get one of the above mentioned pets while your puppy is still young, you will have a better chance of them getting along. Some dogs are just so driven by instincts that you can’t unteach them.

Our household revolves around not only the humans that live here, but our animals as well. By using these simple methods of introduction, you too can have a harmonious household with multiple species as family members.

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Teaching Your Dog Basic Commands: Come and Stay

By Ruthie Bently

“Come” and “stay” are important commands to teach your dog. They could save your dog’s life. I also teach the command “wait,” which is a variation on the sit/stay command or a long down, though your dog does not have to be in the down position.

I was lucky because Skye was already taught her basic commands when I got her, and was very well behaved. Teaching your dog to come is an easy command. Whether you are teaching a puppy or an adult dog, remember to have patience and only train your dog for fifteen minute intervals. This way they don’t get distracted or bored. As I mentioned in a previous article there are no time limits for training your dog. Each dog learns at their own pace, and you should never rush them or compare their progress to another dog’s progress.

The training tools needed are a collar (regular or choke collar), and a long lead line (cotton or nylon). I do not suggest using a retractable lead for training of any kind, though you could use one in a pinch. I use a twenty foot cotton lead, which is lightweight and easier for me to control, especially when I have a sixty pound dog on the other end. I also have plenty of CANIDAE Snap-Bits treats available, which I love because of their small size.

The “come” command is easier to teach if you have already taught your dog to sit, although it can be taught if your dog has not yet learned to sit. Attach the long lead to your dog’s collar and have them sit. Next, while facing your dog, walk backwards to the end of the lead so it is fully extended between you and your dog. Then call them in a happy voice and say “come” repeatedly until they come. If they don’t immediately get the idea, begin drawing the lead (with dog attached) toward you while you are repeating the word come. After they come to you, whether they do it on their own or with your help, praise them, give them a treat, or a hug and a pat on the head. Keep practicing and training until your dog has this one down.

You can also use the long lead to teach the “stay” command. Put your dog in a “sit” facing you and back away from your dog to the end of the line again, repeating the word stay as you back away. After you get to the end of the leash length, keep repeating the word stay for fifteen to thirty seconds. You want the dog to stay where they are until you give them your release word, which can be as simple as OK. I teach in increments of time beginning with about fifteen seconds and work my way up to one minute. If you go into open obedience classes with your dog, they will need to “stay” for longer than thirty seconds, but remember that your dog’s attention span when teaching a new command may be distracted by something else, so you want to make it easy and fun for them, without them getting bored.

I also teach the command “wait” to my dogs. This is a great command if you are getting your dog ready to go outside, to go for a ride in the car, or if you need to put something on the dog, like a different collar or a coat, sweater or boots. When I was teaching this command to Skye, I began by putting her in a “sit/stay,” which is basically getting your dog to sit, and then giving the stay command. Then you add the “wait” command. As Skye was already trained, I didn’t need to use a long lead; but you can teach it very easily that way. Put your dog in a “sit” and as before back away to the end of the lead’s length. Tell your dog to stay, then add the “wait” command. After your dog learns “wait,” you will not have to use the “stay” command; just put them on a sit and then say “wait” in place of the “stay” command you would use.

It is really a long “sitting stay” the way I use it, but it has come in handy. Most recently I took her with me to her favorite pet store to get her CANIDAE dog food and the cats’ FELIDAE. I have a small truck and while I have her leashed it is a short lead, which is designed to keep her close so she can’t climb out the window. While loading my purchases, Skye decided to get out of the truck. She was still leashed to the truck, but I was worried that she might hurt herself if she pulled on the leash too much. So I told her to wait, which she did. After I got the truck loaded, I unattached her leash while holding her collar, put her back in the truck, re-leashed her and off we went.

I learned this command from a man I used to work with who taught his Labrador Retrievers to sit and “wait” at any street corner or curbside they came up to. This may sound over-simplified, but if you live on a busy street and teach your dog the “wait” command when you get to the curb, this could be all it takes to save your dog’s life if they get out of the house unattended and go shooting for the street. I have come to the conclusion that you can never over-train a dog. They love to learn, and training will always keep them safer than not training them.

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Tips for Socializing a Puppy

By Ruthie Bently

Every dog training book I have ever read has chapters about socializing your puppy. After living with a dog that was not properly socialized when she was younger, I understand the importance of socializing a puppy. You don’t want to live with a dog that barks at the mailman and delivery people. Or one that barks at every sound they hear outside, whether it’s your kids playing in your yard or a loud car stereo going by.

On the other hand, a dog that has not been socialized can also be a “Nervous Nellie” and may go hide in another room or under a piece of furniture. They can even be afraid of sounds inside the house, like the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher or clothes dryer. In a worst case scenario, they can become aggressive to other dogs or strangers that visit your home. So it is important to begin socializing your puppy as soon as you bring them home. But how do you go about it?

There are several ways to help you socialize a new puppy, and they don’t take a lot of effort. One good way is to enroll them in a puppy obedience class as early as possible, but make sure they’ve had all their shots first. Your puppy will get to meet other dog breeds, and by interacting with them will learn not to be nervous or fearful around them. When I took my first AmStaff to obedience class, I asked how many other dogs would be in his class. Since he was a younger, smaller dog, I wanted to get him into a class with fewer dogs. A smaller class is good because you can get more hands-on socializing, without overwhelming your new puppy.

The veterinarian’s office is also a good place for your puppy to have new experiences. They have a chance to interact with other pets and meet the vet and their staff. When you make your puppy’s first vet appointment, let the person you speak with know that you are bringing a new puppy, and that you would like help in socializing them. By having the vet and their staff make a fuss over your dog, your dog will learn that there is another place they are welcome to go and meet friendly people.

What about your local pet shop – are dogs allowed there? I managed one store in Illinois and we encouraged new puppy owners to bring in their dogs for a meet and greet. We asked for three things: 1) the puppy had to have a leash and collar (or harness) on; 2) we were allowed to give the puppy a cookie; 3) they should walk the puppy thoroughly before they brought it in to prevent “accidents.”

The place was large enough to negotiate with a puppy (or an adult dog), and the puppy got to help pick out their own toys and had fun being able to go into a store. Not only that, there were lots of people available (both workers and customers) to fawn over the puppy.

You can get your friends and family members involved in socializing your puppy too. Have a “meet the puppy” party, and supply puppy-sized treats in a dish by the door. CANIDAE Snap-Bits® are great for this; they are a perfect size, with a pleasant flavor, and they don’t have too many calories. Have the puppy next to you by the door and after the bell rings or they knock, open the door and hand the guest a treat for the puppy. If feeding your puppy between meals makes you uncomfortable, have the arriving guest get down on the puppy’s level and put out their hand for the puppy to smell, speaking to the puppy in a friendly voice and then have them pet the puppy. You can also ask a friend or family member with a dog to come over and meet your puppy. This way your puppy gets to meet other dogs in a safe arena under your supervision.

Are there any businesses in your town that hand out dog biscuits? Our bank has a treat jar right next to the lollipop jar at the drive through. Skye loves going for rides in the car, though I don’t take her with me when it is too hot or too cold out. By taking your dog for rides in the car when you can, they get used to going in the car and may be less apt to get carsickness, as it could be stress related. The dog park is a good place to meet dogs, but I recommend checking it out first before taking your new puppy. Go to the dog park and meet some of the other dogs’ owners, as well as the dogs, and see if you think your puppy is socialized well enough for that.

By following these simple ideas for socializing your puppy, you can meet new people and your puppy can make new friends as well. Nothing could be finer!

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How to Train a Dog to Sit

By Ruthie Bently

When you live with a dog, they need to be as well-behaved as you would expect your human child to be. Having an unruly dog is just as bad, and can sometimes be worse than having an unruly child. Teaching your dog basic commands, whether in an obedience class with other dogs or with a private trainer, is important. You never know when you may have to use them, but the commands you have trained your dog to obey may be useful in saving their life.

There are no time limits for training your dog and you should not rush them to learn if they are a bit slow. Every dog is different and will learn at their own pace; you just need to have patience. You may even want to keep a training journal, because if you have training issues and need help it can be easier for someone to assess your dog if they can see your progress written down.

In obedience training with my own dogs, I learned that the easiest way to train a dog to sit was to use a tiny bit of bait, like a Snap-Bits® treat. I would put it in my hand, so that my dog could not see it or steal it, but was able to smell it. Then facing my dog, I started with my hand several inches above their nose and ran my hand with the treat, in line with their backbone back towards their tail. The easiest way for them to follow the treat is to lift up their head and they sit.

While my dog is beginning to sit, I say “sit” so they will learn to associate the word with the action. After they sit, I repeat the word “sit” several times and praise my dog for being good. If your hand is too far above your dog’s head, they may try and jump for the treat. Lowering your hand so it is closer to their head should take care of this. Sometimes, Skye will try and back up to get the treat. When she does this, I back her up against a fence, so there is a barrier behind her and she can’t back up any more.

I learned to teach the command ‘down’ by first putting my dog in a sitting position in front of me. Then, using a treat they couldn’t see in my hand or take away but could smell, I put my hand a few inches in front of their nose and lower my hand to the floor. Our trainer also taught us to look at the floor first, because our dog’s eyes would follow ours down to the floor and make it theoretically easier to get our dog to understand what we wanted. After my dog would lie down on the floor, I would put the treat between their front feet and say “down” several times and make much of my dog’s accomplishment.

When training a new command, I usually only work for fifteen to twenty minutes at a time, and about three times a day. If you are working with a puppy, even an older dog; you don’t want them to get bored. Keep it light and fun and they will have no problem with you wanting to train them, because they will think it is a new form of playing. After all is said and done, isn’t a well-behaved dog what we all want?

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Why Do Dogs Eat Grass?

By Linda Cole

I love sitting with my dogs outside in their pen, especially on warm, sunny afternoons. Trees provide plenty of shade as they patrol their territory. Their ears are pricked forward, adjusting as sounds float by in a gentle breeze. Interesting smells set their noses working overtime. At times, they sit and search the trees overlooking their pen for squirrels or neighborhood cats. Then, out of the blue, my dogs turn into a herd of grazing cows. Why do dogs eat grass?

Dogs are carnivores, but they are also omnivores. When hungry, a dog will eat whatever it can find. No matter how full they may be from scarfing down their normal meal of dog food, it seems like it's never enough.

Vets have no real idea why dogs eat grass, but it's believed by some that a dog's diet included grass a long time ago. They are decedents of wolves and foxes who consumed grasses and berries when they ate their prey which were mainly herbivores. When these ancient animals couldn't find food, it's believed they turned to grass to fill their empty tummies.

Dogs aren't picky eaters like cats. If my cats don't like the smell from an offering before them, they stick their nose in the air and walk away. Dogs don't care if their food comes from a bag, can, garbage container or some choice prize found hidden in the grass. They will scavenger anything they find laying around inside or out, including those “treats” they find in a cat box.

So if dogs like eating grass so much, why do they vomit it back up? Not once, but twice. It's always twice. Many a dog owner has smiled at the look our dogs give us between one and two. A disgustingly bad tasting, sour look that indicates it didn't taste that bad going down.

An old wives tale says your dog eats grass because he's sick. Yes and no. Vets believe dogs eat grass to help relieve indigestion. Bile is secreted from their gallbladder into the stomach which helps break up fats. When their stomach is empty, they can get a sort of indigestion from the built up bile. Dogs will eat grass to make themselves throw up to get rid of the excess acid caused by the secretion of bile.

Vets also think some dogs simply like to eat grass. The nice, neatly mowed grass that makes up our lawns is soft and has a sweet taste. This grass is the best type for them to eat. More weedy types of grass can scratch and irritate their esophagus. If you see a slightly bloody froth after your dog throws up, they have gotten into a patch of weedy grass. It's believed some dogs simply crave a good mouthful of greens every now and then. That's when they seem to be able to keep it down.

If your dog eats grass regularly and throws it up, it could be cause for concern. A vet visit may be in order to make sure there is no underlying illness that hasn't shown up yet. A dose of antacids can be prescribed by your vet to help get rid of that acid feeling your dog has, thereby curbing his desire to eat grass.

Another way to help discourage your dog from eating grass is to spread his food into smaller meals throughout the day. Keeping food in his stomach will help eliminate the acidic feeling your dog gets from an empty stomach. A round of treats like CANIDAE® Snap-Bits™ before going to bed can also help, or you can sprinkle a little bran on his main meal (bran helps fill the stomach).

It's normal for dogs to eat grass, and it won't hurt them. Just be careful not let them eat grass that's been treated with any kind of chemicals. Once they've had a chance to break down, which isn't usually very long, the grass is safe for your dog to graze on to his heart's content.

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Basic Dog Grooming: Supplies and Procedures

By Ruthie Bently

Each dog breed is different, and there are many hair types, show clips and grooming procedures for them. The basics of dog grooming, however, apply to every dog, whether it’s a Labrador Retriever, an Airedale Terrier, a Poodle or a Portuguese Water Dog. When grooming your dog, they should be relaxed and this should be an enjoyable experience for them.

Basic grooming supplies include a brush, comb, shampoo, conditioner (for longer coats), detangler, ear cleaner, toothpaste, toothbrush, dog toenail clippers, styptic pencil or powder, cotton balls and CANIDAE® Snap-Bits™ dog treats. All supplies should be for use on pets, not humans. The ph of our hair is different and you could dry out your dog’s coat and remove essential oils by using shampoo made for people. There are many good dog shampoos on the market and some of them are even “tearless.” I use the Snap-Bits after I groom Skye as an enticement for the next time, and they always work.

Brushing your dog removes dead hair and stimulates the glands that produce the natural oils which lubricate their skin and coat. I am constantly combing burrs and thistles out during the months when they are plentiful. I usually brush Skye’s coat outside as soon as the weather is warm enough to do so. Though she is a short-coated dog, like many dogs that shed, she can really blow coat in the spring and fall. I brush head to tail and use a rubber palm pad. The rubber creates a static charge with the hair and the hair sticks to the brush and massages Skye’s skin at the same time.

Bathing is important for all dogs regardless of age. Your dog’s activity level, what they get into, and how much they groom themselves will give you an idea how many baths they need in a year. There is no hard and fast rule, though some say you should bathe your dog at least once a month. If you have a dog that loves to roll in smelly things, or dig in the mud, you may have to bathe them more often. It’s good to bathe your dog yourself if you can, as it gives you a chance to examine them for injuries or any other abnormalities that a groomer may not be looking for. I found a cyst on my first dog’s back that way, before it came through his skin and became a major health issue.

Cleaning their ears is important because it lets you check for infection, ticks or ear mites that may be there. You can also look for anything that may have gotten lodged in your dog’s ears from their outside excursions. I clean out any heavy debris with cotton balls, and then use ear cleaner. Most ear cleaners are very easy to use; the one I use is self-drying and just gets squirted into the ear and then Skye shakes her head to remove it. You have to take more care with a dog whose ears droop, as it is easier for them to get an infection.

Cleaning their teeth is important because you can keep plaque from forming. You can also check your dog’s teeth for cracks, breaks or cavities that may be forming. It is important to use a toothpaste made specifically for dogs. Some human toothpastes have chemicals and artificial sweeteners in them that are toxic to dogs. Many veterinarians anesthetize a dog to clean their teeth. Depending on your dog’s age, this could be dangerous. There are human dental hygienists that clean dog’s teeth and use natural products and no anesthesia, but they can be difficult to find, so cleaning your dog’s teeth yourself is a win-win situation.

Keeping your dog’s toenails clipped prevents them from scratching and hurting themselves or you and your loved ones. It also keeps them from getting their toenails caught in fabrics or damaging the floors and furniture in your home. There are many types of clippers on the market, I know a breeder who uses a Dremel tool to trim her dogs’ toes because she likes the job it does. Having styptic powder is important if your dog has darker or black nails, as mistakes can happen and the styptic powder will stop the bleeding.

I love grooming Skye, as it gives us more special time together and my attention is wholly focused on her, which she loves. It doesn’t take much of my time and we get to bond further and get even closer. It has a calming effect on me and her occasional antics are hilarious, even if half of the bath water ends up on me.

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